U30C #2993

[James Pruitt]

This is the latest model I finished. A lot of work and time went into this one. GE’s are big models and fairly plain looking. Most of the work went into detailing the under frame and most of that went into the air reservoirs.

Some of the custom parts are the air reservoir brackets, Jacking pad supports, radiator cores and head light face plate and visors.

I enjoyed building this model and need to build three more.

Brian

[peggyrothschild]

Looking at the last photo how did you get the walkways to look as worn as you did?

[madonnasuffolk30]

If there was a like button I would have mashed it down. Great photos of your model, Brian. Thank you again for sharing how you built the models in your presentation.

Nate

[James Pruitt]

@cduckworth wrote:

Looking at the last photo how did you get the walkways to look as worn as you did?

The walkways are done with multiple operations.

1. Paint the base color. In the case of my U30C, I painted it primer gray. Not to look like primer, but to look like steel gray. If you wanted a more rusty or patina look, then paint your base color in different rust tones both dark and light oranges and browns. Let this dry for a couple days.

2. Paint the deck area with hair spray. I use it from a pump bottle. Easier to use than the spray. I put on a thin coat. Hair spray does not add any thickness to your model. Hair spray works by evaporation and leaves a thin film.

3. After the hair spray dries, put your top coat of blue on. MUST BE acrylic. Acrylics dry fast. Solvent based paints work, but not as well. True Color paints works OK too.

4. Once you are done painting, add water to the area and use a stiff brush and start chipping the paint. The longer you leave moisture on the area, the more and larger the paint chips will be. If you want to stop the chipping effect, dab the area with a q-tip to dry it.

I do all my chipping work before adding decals. Once the chipping work is done, I then seal it all with an acrylic clear gloss for adding decals.

All my weathering is done over a semi-gloss or satin clear coat.

The deck comes alive when you start weathering it. I start by adding washes and pigments.

I do all my base paints in acrylics because I use solvent based paints and weathering solutions.

Brian

[peggyrothschild]

Brian
Do you use any PanPastels for weathering? I want to slightly fade the Jenks Blue on my Athearn units and thought this might be an approach.

Charlie

[bargetanika]

I like the chipped-off edge of the large horn bell. Presumably the prototype was like that?

[James Pruitt]

Charlie,

I do use Pan Pastels, but very subtle use. Pan pastels are not the product to use for large areas. Fade the blue with washes. Not chalks/pastels/pigments. I fade the top color with a white wash or white with a little blue added.

Be very careful with how much fade you add. You really won’t see it until you start adding other weathering techniques.

Patrick,

Yes, the prototype has a big dent at the top of the large horn bell.

Brian

[peggyrothschild]

Brian
When to talk about washes for fading are you using a brush or air brush? Who’s paints are you using?

[James Pruitt]

I apply the wash with a paint brush. I use artist oils and now I am using Humbrol enamels. I do not use the artist oils anymore because it takes a long time for them to dry. Enamels take less time to dry.

All my base painting is done with acrylics. My weathering is done with enamels or other solvent based products. For fading use about 90% thinner to 10% or less of color. I apply multiple coats to get what I want.

I use enamels because it can be manipulated. It takes overnight for it to really dry hard.

DO NOT allow your fade wash to puddle. You only want the surface damp, not soaked. If you get a puddle over details, wick it away.

Brian

[mopac]

Brian,

try the white wash of Vallejo.

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/en_US/model-wash/family/29

It is water based, needs no thinning and it needs 3-5 layer for a fading. So the fading is easy to dose.

[Author]

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