[James Pruitt]

Yes, the Tichy decals are 3 dimensional. They are raised and not flat lettering like we are used to.

I do not think that is good. Kind of like resin printing rivets like Archer offers. Not a good idea for lettering.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

I apply the wash with a paint brush. I use artist oils and now I am using Humbrol enamels. I do not use the artist oils anymore because it takes a long time for them to dry. Enamels take less time to dry.

All my base painting is done with acrylics. My weathering is done with enamels or other solvent based products. For fading use about 90% thinner to 10% or less of color. I apply multiple coats to get what I want.

I use enamels because it can be manipulated. It takes overnight for it to really dry hard.

DO NOT allow your fade wash to puddle. You only want the surface damp, not soaked. If you get a puddle over details, wick it away.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Charlie,

I do use Pan Pastels, but very subtle use. Pan pastels are not the product to use for large areas. Fade the blue with washes. Not chalks/pastels/pigments. I fade the top color with a white wash or white with a little blue added.

Be very careful with how much fade you add. You really won’t see it until you start adding other weathering techniques.

Patrick,

Yes, the prototype has a big dent at the top of the large horn bell.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

This is really cool information. Thank you Nate for posting it.

I can make a photo etch kit for myself for these. Make it out of 0.004″ brass and solder it all together.

With that one screen laying on the top of the hood, it looks like the screens were slipped into the slot in the round conduit tube at the top and bolted to the bracket that is 4″ up from the bottom. The screens were not welded in place.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Beautiful work Charlie! The roads look fantastic. The width looks right and the detail on them is great. Overall the scenery is really enjoyable to look at. I really do like the RI boxcar too. Nice!

If I can make just one suggestion. It is the thing that always sticks out to ruin an otherwise professional scenery job. Get the structures INTO the layout and not sitting on top.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

I put in my preorder for one today.

Regardless of what Athearn delivers, it will get stripped and rebuilt from the ground up. If it is as good as their GP15-1’s, not a whole lot of work needs to be done.

I am looking forward to adding it to my roster. Now I just need couple quality B23-7 and and my locomotive purchases will be complete.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

@JoppaSub wrote:

So…the hood is clearly cobbled together…

Oh yes. That is for certain.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

2600 still has the GP35 clean air room. Tell tail sign is the door and no weep holes. At least the external look is a GP35 clean air room. Probably with GP38-2 internals, inertial intakes and raised inertial dust bin. Dimensionally though it is a GP35 room. The dust bin being used on this unit would not fit a 38-2 clean air room.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Nate, those photos are AWESOME! Thank you for posting them. They will go a LONG way in helping my project efforts.

Again, THANK YOU!!!!

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Thank you Nate. That is a detail I had not even known about and missed on my SD40-2 and GP35 models.

Now I need to pay more attention and look for it. But it appears to be standard so I should probably add it to any new models.

Thanks again for the heads up and the photos are great!

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Now is this standard for all hood units?

Do we have photographic evidence that this was in practice or just on paper?

Brian

[James Pruitt]

@obermeyern wrote:

Brian,

However something you might find interesting is that the diagrams do show on EMD locomotives at the raised step on the fireman’s side the step is painted gray and the gray paint goes 6″ to both side (top and the bottom) of the step if that makes sense.

Nate

Nate, Are you referring to the blower duct step up?

Top of blower duct gray 6″ in and bottom 6″ out?

[James Pruitt]

That is a pretty good video. Yes, the quality is not so great, BUT there is a whole lot of interesting freight cars in there. I saw a Lehigh Valley X58. Very cool and then there was a brief glimpse of an odd (I think) cement car. It had three separate round containers all connected together. It was read and white. I have seen this car before.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Nate,

Yes, this is correct.

Brian

@obermeyern wrote:

Brian,

I looked at photos and reread what you said. I want to make sure this is correct for the brake cylinders:

Any position truck (front or rear):

Right side: high/high
Left side: high/high

Front truck only:

Right side: low/low
left side: high/low

Rear truck only:

Right side: low/high
left side: low/low

Nate

[James Pruitt]

Nate,

You only need two examples. TRUCK 2 is for both the front and rear. The single high mount cylinder swaps sides depending on where it is used (front or rear).

Truck 1
Left side high/high
Right side high/high

Truck 2
Left side high/low
Right side low/low

Brian

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