[lenaculbert50]

I’ve got a couple out of the ordinary projects too. Finishing a laser cut kit from AMB. I don’t model Santa Fe but had this kit for a couple years and it was started prior. My first kit of this type.

Also converted a phase III GP9 to a high hood GP18 with the correct radiator grills.

[lenaculbert50]

Hi Clayton. My brother models N scale and has asked the same question. Some of the kit parts print so small in HO that I don’t think they will do well in N scale. I have been looking at the possibility of a full hood replacement in HO for a phase 3 version. However, it’s still a number of test prints away to see if it will work. If I get a successful HO print I can try and scale it down for N. So, no promises but I’ll keep everyone updated here.

Mike

[lenaculbert50]

Hi Jeff. Looks good so far. Details do take some time to figure out. It helped me to spray a quick coat of primer on test prints. The primer adds some contrast to make the details easier to see. Mike

[lenaculbert50]

Jeff,

The drawing dimensions call for a slope from front to back. I don’t see that slope in Charlie’s pictures. It’s what makes the drawing look odd to me.

I sent you a file version you can edit. If you have trouble with it, let me know and I’ll make changes for you.

Mike

[lenaculbert50]

Jeff,

I have a 3D drawing of the doghouse if you would like to use. It’s based on the dimensions above and Charlie’s earlier image. I’ll send it if you would like to print. I can give you an .stl or .step file.

I’m not sure about the roof angle from the drawing dimensions. Charlie’s image doesn’t look like it has that angle and it seems odd to me in the 3D image.

Mike

[lenaculbert50]

Charlie, I’ll have to get a copy of this book for the Sikeston images alone. I talked to Joe a few times at St. Louis swap meets but never discussed how many times he had been to Sikeston. I should have known since he had picture credits in the 1990 Mainline Modeler article on the Sikeston depot.

[lenaculbert50]

One final item. I’m attaching the drawing files for anyone interested. This will give you the conversion parts if you have the capability to print, or send to a printing service.

[lenaculbert50]

As promised, here are images of the finished model.

The good:
It’s definitely MoPac’s version of the E-7. The conversion was fairly easy with minimal cuts needed using the printed parts.
The bad:
I should have gone to the center door frames on both sides with the cuts. Trying to save the opening center door made it more difficult to fill the gaps. Also, there is absolutely no spare space between the shell sides and the chassis. I revised the drawings to make the parts thinner.

Overall, I think it went well. I like the glossy blue look of fresher paint. The details were scaled back since it was really about testing the concept. This was a $20 swap meet model that would probably have ended up in a parts bin otherwise.

There are other variations in the MoPac E-7 locomotives. Some had additional vent grills around the portholes. Others had different filter mounts behind the cab doors. This number was the closest prototype I found to match the Proto 2000 shell.

[lenaculbert50]

I also had to fix the number boards to the correct 45 degree version. I would normally use Details West metal but of course I didn’t have a set.

I took some measurements from another model and drew my own. One definite advantage of 3D printing. The print came out better than expected with only three tries.

I also tend to get a bend in the metal number boards. I was able to add more angle to the resin prints so they look much better.

Since this is a test shell I’m not going to add a lot of detail parts. It will also be Jenks blue. Next post should be paint.

[lenaculbert50]

Latest progress:

The replacement panels were printed a little oversize so I could match the fit to the openings. I think they would have looked better if I had cut the opening all the way to the center door frame. It would cause the doors to be fixed, but I don’t expect them to be opened anyway.

The resin is a little softer than the plastic. Because of this, it sands easier and you can cut into it quicker when trying to fill the gap.

It also seems the details are a little too tall. I don’t think it will be noticed much in paint but I’m going to adjust the drawing.

[lenaculbert50]

Some cutting, trimming and filing later, I have the openings ready to fit the printed parts.

I was able to go to the upright rivet strip at the front. The same at the rear. The only thing I hesitated on was at the center hood door. The door has a frame that slides into dovetailed slots on the interior. I had hoped to keep the slots intact, but am worried about a clean gap on the parts.

Anyway, this is my prototype so will see how it goes. Once I get the parts fitted, I’ll be back.

[lenaculbert50]

I did some quick measurements based on photos and drawings. Unfortunately, no prototype around to get actual dimensions.

It only took about an hour to draw these out and off to the printer.

[lenaculbert50]

Here are a couple pictures of the hood ends. The parts worked out well and made the conversion fairly easy.

I’m a little slow on building so probably took me longer than it should have. It’s a unique model so I’m tempted to do another.

Thanks for looking.

[lenaculbert50]

Finished…..at least for now. I installed led headlights and got most of the touch up done. Still debating on how much weathering I’ll add. Always afraid I’ll mess up a paint job with too much.

[lenaculbert50]

Waiting on some MU hoses to finish the pilots.

I had to do some searching for the decal sizes I needed. The MI letters under the cab herald and the number boards came from an N-scale boxcar set from Microscale.

I hope to have the shell final in another week so I can get it back on the chassis.

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