[James Pruitt]

Dan,

When mixing side frames, you HAVE to have one side as low mounts and the other as a hi/low. Not both sides as low mounts. For instance. this is one of the units I am going to be modeling http://www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=1869765. The rear trucks is hi mount on both sides. The front left as you can see is a hi/low mount. The other side of the front truck (right side) is low/low mount only. Look at the clasp and slack adjuster between the first and second wheel. The low mount brake cylinder is between the second and third wheel. Now if you are modeling a unit that has high mounts on the front and hi/low on the rear, then the hi/lo side frame would be on the rear right and the low/low would be on the rear left. No exception to that rule.

And being the stickler that I am, it is not just an easy add a hi mount brake cylinder. The clasp is different also and the the single low mount brake cylinder is turned around.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Yes Dan, 738/3038 does have a combination truck configuration.

This type of detail is what makes modeling MP SD40’s fun. I’ll be building my SD40’s from various models. Kato/Athearn/Atlas/P2K.

Kato frame, drive and gear towers.
Athearn truck side frames and fuel tank.
Atlas long hood.
P2K SD45 deck.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Nate,

#3034 is one I am going to model. This photo has the right look to capture my interest in modeling it. The weathering is GREAT!

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/mp/mp3034gea.jpg

I have to disagree with you on Unit #738. I see it having hi mounts up front both sides and hi/low on rear right and low on rear left. This is a not so great example, but I see only one high mount brake cylinder on the rear right.

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/mp/mp738bpa.jpg

Found this photo of 3038 dated 06/1976 and it has high mounts up front and High/low rear. The rear is low mount on the left and hi/low mount on the right

http://www.rr-fallenflags.org/mp/mp3038gea.jpg

#3041 front is low mount on the right and hi/low on the left. All high mount on the rear.

The truck combinations are very important. If Athearn is touting detail specific models. Ask if they plan on adding the air dam behind the inertial filter screens.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

Charlie,

How did you copy the photos and keep the sizes. I tried, but they copied all cropped and cut up.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

@cduckworth wrote:

Brian
Beautiful work! Any tips you can lend on your weathering techniques.

Charlie,

The best tip I can give is to study how the military modelers do their weathering work. I have spent hours on Youtube watching these guys. They have it down pat and they have lots of techniques to follow. Especially watch the videos on using AK Interactive products as well as Ammo of Mig Jemenez products. Mig really taught me a lot. You have to wade through some bad videos, but there are some really good ones in there. Dr. Cranky is very good, Scale Model Medic is great as well. Also follow some of the Fantasy and war gamers.

Brian

[James Pruitt]

@cduckworth wrote:

Looking at the last photo how did you get the walkways to look as worn as you did?

The walkways are done with multiple operations.

1. Paint the base color. In the case of my U30C, I painted it primer gray. Not to look like primer, but to look like steel gray. If you wanted a more rusty or patina look, then paint your base color in different rust tones both dark and light oranges and browns. Let this dry for a couple days.

2. Paint the deck area with hair spray. I use it from a pump bottle. Easier to use than the spray. I put on a thin coat. Hair spray does not add any thickness to your model. Hair spray works by evaporation and leaves a thin film.

3. After the hair spray dries, put your top coat of blue on. MUST BE acrylic. Acrylics dry fast. Solvent based paints work, but not as well. True Color paints works OK too.

4. Once you are done painting, add water to the area and use a stiff brush and start chipping the paint. The longer you leave moisture on the area, the more and larger the paint chips will be. If you want to stop the chipping effect, dab the area with a q-tip to dry it.

I do all my chipping work before adding decals. Once the chipping work is done, I then seal it all with an acrylic clear gloss for adding decals.

All my weathering is done over a semi-gloss or satin clear coat.

The deck comes alive when you start weathering it. I start by adding washes and pigments.

I do all my base paints in acrylics because I use solvent based paints and weathering solutions.

Brian

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